Akangjungla
In the face of the many resentments and debates following cultural appropriation –‘misrepresentation and incorrect usage of traditional designs in fashion shows and on clothes sold on e-commerce websites,’ the state level consultative meet with all tribal hohos on documentation of traditional attires, motifs, designs, and ornaments deserves appreciation. Probably, the first of its kind in Nagaland, the consultative meet held at Capital Convention Centre, Kohima on May 23, 2022 has been a long felt need to address the emergence of several famous fashion designers imitating traditional attires, symbols, and ornaments that clearly reflects elements of the indigenous ethnicity and culture.
The Nagaland Chief Minister voiced concern on the misuse of traditional attires and symbols, which according to him “has to be guarded.” The Chief Minister underscored that the unregulated use of Naga cultural designs and symbols will lead to distortion and misrepresentation. The fashion industry has a longstanding history of appropriating indigenous culture; even when the damage is unintentional, it can have far-reaching consequences on the communities which originally owns it due to the significance and implication attached to it. In this line of concern, the Chief Minister has rightly said that steps have to be taken to ensure ‘cultural heritage is protected under legal provisions’ such as Intellectual Property Rights and Geographical Indications.
For the Naga people, the traditional attire and ornament of each community is determined by factors such as gender, clan, occasions and many others, and therefore, cultural appropriation sparks ardent debate because of the reverence, respect and value associated with its heritage. While many prefer to call it “borrowing”, “inspiration” and “cultural exchange”, the lack of respectful interpretation of the cultures does not rationalise it. It is more than just taking control over the traditional cultural expressions; it is central to the identity of being the Naga people.
It is understood that the heart of the state level consultative meet was “to ensure that we not only sustain and keep our culture and heritage alive but also benefit in ways in which the new system will enable everyone to prosper, and for this to happen community engagement is the primary approach.” This approach needs to be manifested in the form of strict law and firm implementation. Proper channels have to be created for the communities and the fashion designers/industries to engage with using the traditional cultural expressions within the legal provisions. The creative industries – fashion, modelling, photography, films etc, can take part in a cultural heritage without getting tangled in the issue of cultural appropriation by putting the best efforts to listen, study, understand and appreciate another culture; and by considering the context and various aspects of the culture to ensure respectful reinterpretation without hurting the values and outlook of the people.
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