Bedanga Bordoloi
Nagaland today finds itself at a pivotal moment in agricultural decision-making. The proposed introduction of genetically modified (GM) Bt cotton into the state’s farming systems has sparked a growing dialogue—not just among policy circles, but within communities, research institutions, and civil society. While some perceive Bt cotton as a vehicle for modernizing agriculture, enhancing pest resistance, and improving yields, others warn against its ecological, cultural, and socio-economic implications. In a state where cotton cultivation remains deeply intertwined with traditional, community-led practices, the implications of such a shift demand thoughtful deliberation.
This article presents a balanced perspective, grounded in scientific research and global experience, and tailored to Nagaland’s unique context. It explores both the promise and the limitations of Bt cotton while examining whether the model aligns with the values and realities of local farmers.
A Brief History: What has Bt Cotton Replaced?
India’s cotton legacy is both rich and complex. Long before modern biotechnology entered the picture, indigenous cotton varieties such as Gossypium arboreum and G. herbaceum were cultivated across the subcontinent. These varieties, commonly known as desi cotton, were drought-tolerant, pest-resistant, and compatible with organic and low-input systems. Farmers nurtured these crops through community-based seed selection, organic manuring, and intercropping systems suited to their regions.
This equilibrium was disrupted during the colonial period. In 1797, the British introduced Bourbon cotton in India to supply their Lancashire mills. Over time, this and other exotic cotton varieties replaced native cultivars, gradually marginalizing resilient local strains. The shift accelerated post-Independence, as India’s push for higher yields led to the widespread adoption of hybrid cotton, reliant on synthetic inputs and increasingly vulnerable to pest outbreaks.
By the early 2000s, bollworm infestations had severely impacted cotton productivity in many states. In response, Bt cotton—a transgenic crop carrying a gene from a soil bacteria Bacillus thuringiensis to deter bollworms—was approved for commercial cultivation in 2002. The technology, developed by Monsanto and sub-licensed to Indian seed companies through Mahyco Monsanto Biotech (India) Pvt Ltd (MMBL), promised to reduce pesticide use and enhance yields.
The adoption was swift. Today, Bt cotton covers over 95% of India’s total cotton acreage. According to a study , Bt adoption led to an average 24% increase in yield and a 50% increase in profits in selected states. CGIAR research and a Nature Plants study confirmed that in areas lacking integrated pest management (IPM), Bt cotton reduced pesticide applications and associated health risks for farmers.
However, these early gains have plateaued or even reversed in some areas. New pest complexes have emerged. The pink bollworm—originally targeted by Bt technology—has developed resistance in several states, leading to significant crop losses. Reports from Punjab, Maharashtra, and Gujarat in recent years show stagnating yields , rising input costs, and increased pesticide use.
Further, concerns around seed dependency, market control, and farmer autonomy persist. Most Bt cotton hybrids in India are derived from two Monsanto events (Mon 531 and Mon 15985), which have been sub-licensed to over 45 seed companies. While this created variety on paper, it led to narrowing genetic diversity in practice, limiting farmers’ choices and resilience.
Nagaland: A Different Cotton Landscape
Against this national backdrop, Nagaland stands out. A 2023 study by the North East Initiative Development Agency (NEIDA) revealed that nearly 95% of cotton cultivated in the state remains heirloom, perennial, and entirely pesticide-free. Nagaland’s cotton farming is community-led, ecologically embedded, and often driven by women.
These fibers are not only culturally significant but also economically promising. When hand-spun and dyed with natural plant-based colors, this cotton can fetch up to Rs 2,600 per kilogram in niche markets. With global interest growing in regenerative, ethical, and traceable fibers, Nagaland’s cotton economy holds considerable potential.
The NEIDA survey also noted that 85% of cotton-farming households are keen to scale up production if supported by training, institutional linkages, and market access. This interest signals an opportunity to build an inclusive cotton value chain anchored in sustainability and local entrepreneurship.
Introducing Bt cotton into such a setting requires extreme caution. The state’s rainfed conditions, weak formal extension systems, and communal land tenure models make it especially vulnerable to the risks seen elsewhere: seed monopolies, pest resurgence, soil degradation, and legal complications from unauthorized GM seed use. While Bt cotton is approved nationally for fiber, food (oil), and feed (cake), the ecosystem in Nagaland may not yet be prepared for its complexity.
Learning from Global and Local Models
Around the world, countries facing similar dilemmas have developed innovative models that marry tradition with modernity:
o Ethiopia: The Sabahar cooperative sources organic cotton from women farmers and invests in local processing units for spinning, dyeing, and weaving. This approach combines livelihoods with sustainability and gender empowerment.
o Peru: Indigenous colored cotton varieties are cultivated in biodiverse agroforestry systems and marketed through Fairtrade-certified channels under the "Road of Native Cotton Colors" initiative.
o Thailand: The "One Tambon, One Product" program has enabled rural villages to preserve heirloom cotton varieties and access international markets by linking traditional knowledge to branding and quality control.
o Japan: The "Satoyama" model integrates traditional rice and cotton cultivation into conservation landscapes that generate both ecological and economic value through tourism and heritage branding.
o India: The Trinjan initiative in Punjab is reviving cotton spinning among women, reconnecting farming with handcraft traditions, and building a seed-to-fabric ecosystem that values cultural memory and rural employment.
o Canada: Maiwa Handprints, a Canadian textile company, has been sourcing Naga textiles for several years, demonstrating international demand for ethical and hand-woven cotton products.
These examples show that traditional cotton systems are not relics of the past. With appropriate support, they can form the foundation of modern, inclusive, and regenerative economies.
A Roadmap for Nagaland
Rather than viewing Bt cotton as a silver bullet, Nagaland can frame its agricultural future around its strengths: ecological knowledge, seed sovereignty, and community resilience. A five-pronged strategy may include:
1. Community Seed Banks: To conserve and propagate heirloom cotton varieties, preserving both biodiversity and cultural heritage.
2. Agroecological Extension Services: Training and advisory systems tailored to Nagaland’s unique conditions, emphasizing organic practices and local pest management.
3. Decentralized Processing Infrastructure: Local units for spinning, weaving, and dyeing that create employment and retain value within communities.
4. Ethical Market Platforms: Partnerships with fair-trade organizations, designers, and e-commerce platforms to access premium markets.
5. Legal and Biosafety Frameworks: Policies to prevent unregulated spread of GM seeds and protect traditional farming systems from contamination.
Bt cotton research should not be halted altogether. But any trials must follow strict biosafety standards, be conducted in limited and suitable agro-climatic zones, and involve full community participation. Farmers should be able to opt in voluntarily, with full knowledge of the risks, benefits, and long-term implications.
Conclusion: Choosing the Right Cotton Future
The debate in Nagaland is not about whether science or tradition should prevail. It is about how to integrate innovation into a system without dismantling what already works. Cotton is more than just a crop in the state—it is a symbol of work, cultural identity, and ecological balance.
As fashion brands seek regenerative sourcing and markets move toward traceable, climate-friendly textiles, Nagaland’s cotton economy could offer a model rooted in dignity, sustainability, and self-reliance. By listening to its farmers, learning from other regions, and placing community needs at the center, Nagaland has a chance to lead India’s next cotton revolution—one that is indigenous by design and modern in its ambition.
Rather than rush into a technology that has shown mixed results nationally, Nagaland can shape its own cotton future—a future that blends tradition with transformation, and safeguards both biodiversity and livelihoods.
Bedanga Bordoloi is a strategy and sustainability expert with 16+ years of global experience in bioeconomy, ESG, agribusiness, and climate finance. He also works extensively with indigenous communities of North East India. He has advised governments, Fortune 500 firms, grassroots collectives and global organisations on climate-smart business models, regenerative agriculture, and circular economy strategies. A former Supreme Court of India-appointed expert, he led major land restoration and ESG initiatives with IDH, EY, World Bank, IFAD, and Novozymes. A project management professional (PMP) and Global Reporting Initiative (GRI) Trainer, he drives bioeconomy innovation and impact investment.
