Haute Talk with rising Naga designer Shenali Khetoho Sema

Akangchila Longchar | Dimapur ,  March 24

Based in Noida, New Delhi, Naga designer Shenali Khetoho Sema is currently the Head Designer of Morphe. All of 28 years old, Shenali has designing background from National Institute of Design (Ahmedabad), and Central Saint Martin (Alexander Mcqueen alumni). She has also interned for one of the most celebrated American fashion designer, Anna Sui. 

Shenali was featured in The Sartorialist years ago when she was a student. For the clueless, The Sartorialist is a fashion blog by Scott Schuman in New York, who is said to have pioneered fashion photography in blog form. Those clued to fashion know that it is a huge compliment and a boost to be featured in The Sartorialist. 

Shenali was born in Kohima, but most part of growing up happened outside of Nagaland as she was sent to boarding school after third grade. Her father is a former Supreme Court Judge, currently the chairman of Human rights Commission of U.P. She describes her mother as “self-employed, mother of multi-tasking, self-taught Architect, a businesswoman and a whole lot of other things, the creative one in the family really”. She also has two older brothers, both in Nagaland and a sister who lives in Noida with her husband. Out of four children, Shenali is the youngest. 

Shenali finished her schooling in Himachal Pradesh, and then studied textiles design from the National Institute of Design (NID), Ahmedabad; and later studied Fashion from Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design (CSM), London.

Do you miss home? “I miss it during the winter season. Growing up in a boarding school Nagaland has always been associated with holidays and fun and winter breaks. So yes, I miss it during Christmas. She also said the most thing she misses of home is being home for Christmas; “I miss seeing people who I haven’t seen in a long time. You know, old friends and relatives you usually get to meet only during the holiday season,” the young designer shares. 

So does her Naga identity influence her work? Shenali replies, “I’m sure it does. When you see my work one wouldn’t necessarily think that is “so Naga”, but at the end of the day my aesthetics reflect a certain kind of design sensibility that is “so Naga”. I mean, it’s there, but it’s not in your face”. The talented designer also reveals that she did not realize she wanted to plunge into the world of fashion until she ‘was in it’. “My father being a judge and my sister, a lawyer I always thought I would end up being one myself, but then while I was still filling up application forms for Law School I got through NID. I guess the other thing that propelled me towards Design would be my Art teacher from school who suggested going straight into a specialized course like Design rather than going through three years of College,” she said. 

Speaking of her involvement with Morphe, Shenali says, “This is how I see it. I’m heading the label now, until it’s time to hand it over to the next Creative Director. After coming back from London I applied to work under Amit Aggarwal, the then Creative Director of Morphe. My Boss, Mr. Shiv Agarwal (who is also the owner of Morphe), however, wanted me to work for Creative Impex (CI), the parent company. So, I started work with CI as a part of the CI design team. That’s how it all progressed”.

The designer also admits that she don’t really have any muses but seeks inspiration from books-Art books, Architecture, Photography, Textiles. “For the Spring/Summer 2013 collection I looked at Stained glass art and Architecture as the base for surface developments and pattern making. For the Autumn/Winter collection, there is this book called “How to Wrap Five Eggs: Traditional Japanese Packaging” by Hideyuki Oka, a book I came across while studying at NID. So, I’m looking at packaging for the A/W 13/14 season” she reveals.

However, she continues that one designer she admires the most is Phoebe Philo. “I think SHE IS IT! Raf Simons is another,” she shared. Shenali says her signature style sensibility is ‘Minimalist’. But she contends that in India one can’t go too minimal because the buyers want to SEE what they’re paying for. I like to play with colour and fabrics and now embroidery as well, but in a way that it still looks modern. More importantly the clothes need to be wearable because at the end of the day somebody is going to wear them. So, yes, DESIGNED, but still wearable and not gimmicky. 

When asked to opine on Nagaland’s stand in the world of fashion, Shenali ponders and says that she would have to be better informed about the fashion scene in Nagaland before answering that question, but added, “I’ve always believed that Nagas have a sense of aesthetics that is innate and something that is innate will take us a long way, on the condition that there is a “drive” to back up the talent”. 

What are the trends this year? Shenali replies, “No trends, No tips. Don’t be scared of “Bad taste” is I guess what I’m trying to say. Like Diana Vreeland said “A little bad taste is like a nice splash of paprika. We all need a splash of bad taste—it’s hearty, it’s healthy, it’s physical. I think we could use more of it. No taste is what I’m against.” Individuality and originality is what’s important”. 

Any advice for budding designers from Nagaland? Shenali says, “When it comes to giving advice my mind tends to draw a blank. Just take things as they come really. It’s an on going process and you learn as you go. And believe it can only get better!”. 

Shenali Khetoho Sema is already creating a strong influence in the fashion industry. Named the Head Designer of Morphe in September 2012, her clothes and designing trademark are slowly but steadily gaining recognition. And we hope that we shall soon see more of this talented designer’s name splashed in national and international press.